Moving on

With the introductory aid of Ajahn Tepporn, a KKU Buddhist philosophy professor, I am preparing for a long day of interviewing monks at Mahachulalongkorn University's branch in Khon Kaen with the aid of a translator and my trusty (perhaps rusty) camera. Many of the monks I have talked to to arrange this meeting are Lao nationals, which sheds an interesting light on my socioeconomic inquiries of the institutional practice.

Although the tempo of life here is relaxed, I cannot believed how fast time has passed. I have been frustrated by the inconsistency of some inquiries, and the cultural inclination of the Thais to skirt more sensitive issues with a smile and a verbal wink is hard to navigate. As an unwitting American, risk of offense is something to be feared, but transgression may not be overtly indicated.

Especially in the case of monks, some of the questions I hope to pose may be perceived as a questioning of their faith and motives, so tactfulness will be key. The attitude of some of the monks and villagers I have talked to makes me understand the inconsistency of the local practice, complicated by the itinerance of individual monks. Although stories of abuse of authority within the monastic order are rampant, the advantages of the position can also be exploited for positive purposes as well. There is a definite understanding that all monks are not created equal, although the rituals are uniform.

Ban Phai Lent

Having inquired about the monk/politician that would play my host as well as the Buddhist holiday we would be celebrating, I was still unfamiliar with the rituals required of monastic guests. Needless to say, I found kow-towing to be quite a discomfort, both physically painful and ceremonially perplexing as an extended guest in the home of two monks. As I was ushered into the surprisingly well appointed home of Premsak and his fellow monk, I did my best to introduce myself and make a good impression. Unfortunately, in my tired, confused, and inflexible state, I was found fidgeting awkardly on my knees after kissing the ground three times to demonstrate my submission. The monks, recognizing my visibly masked pain, invited me to take a seat on a chair outside on the porch, an invitation i accepted reluctantly. One of the things that most impressed about the local who frequented the temple was the ease and apparent comfort they found kneeling on the concrete or negligibly cushioned straw mats in various improbable configurations of the limbs and joints. The athleticism required to achieve this level of flexibility and mobility must be tremendous, and even the most enfeebled of the elderly devotees of the temple required no visible effort to remain in the most compromising (for me at least) positions for hours. I guess the maxim 'repetition is the mother of perfection' does carry some weight, because by the end of my stay at Wat 'Pim', i found my body pretzeled in ways i never thought possible, made possible by an intense stretching session in the sala (place of prayer and communal meals) led by an energetic eighty year-old peasant woman. I am certain that I would have a lot more to say about the experience had i been fluent in Thai and Isaan, but in functional intercontinental practice, actions often(or always) speak louder than words. More on my impressions of the temple coming shortly.

Pictures

don't seem to have loaded, and I don't seem to have started my story about the temple. I rented a different bike today after hoofing for 3 days so I could get to Kanokporn's (Former U of M student and current administrative officer at KKU) exhibition at the culture and arts museum, located about 4 or 5 miles away from my apartment, although both are on or near campus (this school is ridiculously massive). Kanokporn was part of a team that created the museum presentation about life along the mae nam khong (Mae Khong River is actually a redundant title), where alongside some beautiful photos on the wall, i learned that Ho Chi Minh grew up in Thailand and the Vietnamese cultural tradition of eating dog prepared in various forms had been adopted in the last half-century by the greater ethnic populations that find their livelihood along the famed river, home to the biggest freshwater fish in the world.

Unfortunately, learning these fun facts was not quite so easy. just as I was entering the parking lot, i wiped out, making Khon Kaen's famously red soil a little bit redder. I added a fresh gash to my right elbow while evening out the deeply creeping bruises that now will adorn both thighs and even out my gait.

This time, I wore a helmet, but my bike wasnt so lucky, although I hazard to guess that that is the story of its life. I ripped out the previously unresponsive handbrake as I fell and shattered the rearview mirror, making it only slightly more dangerous to drive. I'll trade it in tomorrow, knowing that all the bikes available have been similarly abused. As walking becomes a less and less appealing option, I am starting to wonder if there's somewhere to trade in my arms and legs.

Kanokporn has promised to score me some betel nut chew, an appealing product that I saw in the mouths of several toothless women when I was in Ban Phai. If red, corroded teeth would only come back into fashion, I'm pretty sure I could come up with some million-dollar marketing gimmicks.

I need to find a good ride or spend my whole time here in constant pain and/or the hospital. I think I'm going to get out of town for a little while and let Thailand's public transport decide my fate. Progress comes in tremendous spurts here so far.

Ee lee ee law ga daw ga dia ('for real' in isaan)

On Google, I found this article (plagiarized)
http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/06/08/headlines/headlines_30006079.
php The text is copied below.

Phra Premsak in monkhood til the end of year

Former Thai Rak Thai partylist MP Premsak Phiayura said yesterday he
would stay in the monkhood until at least the end of the year and urged
three top national leaders to follow in his footsteps.


Speaking at Wat Nanthapimparam in his home province of Khon Kaen, he
said he had been in the monkhood for 90 days, and was content teaching
and helping the local people.


Premsak was known as an outspoken politician and was once a staunch
defender of the Thai Rak Thai Party. But he joined the opposition
parties and People's Alliance for Democracy in criticising Prime
Minister Thaksin Shinawatra shortly before the House dissolution on
February 24.


Premsak said he decided to enter the monkhood as an encouragement for
all sides in the conflicts to hold talks to try to end the political
deadlock.


Following Cabinet secretarygeneral Borwornsak Uwanno's resignation and
decision to enter the monkhood to make merit on the occasion of the 60th
anniversary of His Majesty the King's accession to the throne on
Tuesday, Premsak suggested Thaksin, Senate Speaker Suchon Chaleekrua and
Election Commission chairman Vasana Puemlarp consider following suit.


"They should leave their political posts for the sake of the whole
nation, which will also lessen the sins they have committed against us,"
Premsak said.


The Nation


I really must apologize for the extended neglect of my blog, especially because my last post was only the beginning of a story. Actually, i just looked at my last post and realized that I had not even said anything, so hopefully i can finish that thought and move on to other things that i am doing.

Anyway, Pao and her friend took me to Wat 'Pim' for my weekend of monkery, but the exact details of the morning are a little hazy due to my semi-conscious state at the time. The temple's archway entrance was well-appointed, and i anticipated my own arrival with equal parts excitement, exhaustion, and dread.

Mai dee dtaa muan ee lee duhr (not finished with story, first thing that i can elaborate on)

4 days removed from my visit to Wat Pim'only remember the nickname' in Ban Phai, I hope I can still document my experience in detail. I took notes in a composition book during the time i was there and elaborated on them in the days following. Unfortunately, I forgot to retrieve the book when I flipped my motorcycle on wednesday, mistakenly joyriding through a pothole at top-speed (not really all that fast in my rented 100-CC not-mean looking red and white Suzuki).

I managed to divert the impact of the crash from my helmetless skull, deftly shielding the concrete from doing more serious damage with my ample thighs ( now deeply bruised and minimally mobile) and unfortunately destructable hand/forearm/elbow/foot. I was surprised to be able to walk away from the unwitnessed accident with relatively superficial injuries, remembering to collect my license plate as i stumbled to the side of the road to check where blood was coming from. I was overjoyed to find that the bike, already somewhat of an antique, still functioned, albeit with a few new quirks in the gearshift and ignition.

The book, which must be somewhere out near the road, is no big loss.

The particular circumstances of my monastic experience leads me to believe that some of the interactions and consultations that i witnessed within and without the monastery were highly unusual. In some cases, the deftly clouded explanations i received regarding these events can be regarded as 'shady', or suspiciously unholy behavior, but perhaps that is what one would expect from a 'disgraced?' popular politician turned monk.

As stated earlier, I was picked up from my apartment at 6:45 a.m. by a KKU professor's sister (who i later learned is enrolled as a freshman business english major at the age of 32). I do not understand why we left so early, and I still don't, because the trip to rural Ban Phai was no great distance. Maybe my flawed morning punctuality can be blamed for this confusion. Accompanying the sister was a friend who was never formally introduced (or if she was, i didn't notice in my sleep-deprived daze).

Hungry and tired, we stopped at the beginning of the trip to get breakfast at 7-11, consisting of a green syrup bun and a tiny styrafoam cup of coffee was packaged in an intensely sweetened (as most Thai drinks are) prepackaged teabag.

Some of the intense flavors favored by the thais, especially the penchant for fermented fish, assorted entrails, and drinks that can only be described as syrup with a splash of water that come in flavors ranging from coffee to pickled plum (tastes and has the consistency of duck sauce at a chinese restaurant), are too much for me to handle in excess, although i enjoy testing the brawn of my tastebuds when i get into chili eating contests with my local friends (i previously held the belief that isaan people had evolved to be invulnerable to the searing pain that sometimes endures for hours).

a little back ground. (i hope to add links and commentary but i dont know enough yet)

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/03/15/headlines/headlines_20002779.php

http://news.xinhuanet.com/english/2006-03/13/content_4299149.htm

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/02/20/national/national_20001222.php

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/search/page.news.php?clid=2&id=20002707

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/03/13/politics/politics_20002596.php

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/option/print.php?newsid=20002557

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/06/08/headlines/headlines_30006079.php

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/search/page.arcview.php?clid=4&id=74528&usrsess=

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/06/07/headlines/headlines_30005940.php

Preparing for Lent

"Will it come to 'that'?"

This is the front-page headline of 'The Nation', whose Political Desk grabbed my attention by taking '...a look at the possibilities and at how well-eqipped Thaksin Shinawatra is militarily to survive politically', showcasing 3 photos of high-profile generals who could contend for power in the event of a coup. In one potential case, Shinawatra would topple his own government, and rewrite the constitution on his own terms, in order to 'correct' the current constitutional guidelines that have produced such flawed democratic processes.

It's funny that the newspaper can discuss these scenarios so openly in a country where freedom of expression can be so severely restricted when it comes to sensitive matters such as the king (Rama IX), whose image or seal is displayed on almost every wall and billboard in the country. Shinawatra, a colorful character that opponents and critics have accused of political treachery, appears more and more flagrant in his disrespect or disregard for the current political institutions. He is currently accused of financing fictitious political parties to oppose him in the recent elections that were boycotted by the opposition, elections that he would have won because of his party's immense popularity among the rural poor that enjoy the windfall of its populist (if corruptly so) practices.

The charismatic Shinawatra seems to be fed up with compulsory deference to a crown that has been a politically and socially infallible icon in Thailand since the authoritarian government established by a 1958 military coup decided that the official installation of traditional cultural paternalist practices, including deified royal reverence, would combat the growing threat from the left and to justify and legitimize the violent coup.

Since April, Thaksin has been in charge of a 'caretaker government', having dissolving parliament to prove the democratic mandate of the power that he and his personally financed Thai Rak Thai (Thais Love Thais) have held since 2001.

Being the richest man in Thailand, Thaksin, a graduate of Sam Houston State, rose to power through the wealth(prestige) acquired through his monopolization of the national telecommunications industry. The pen may be mightier than the sword, but this maxim may be rendered inconsequential here in the context of the crony/clan-market capitalist political economy Thailand where there is a realistic possibility of buying both the biggest pen and the sharpest sword. I am intrigued by the developing political turmoil and may return to it frequently.

$$$Change of Topic$$$

A friend of mine introduced me to a local barber whose 15-year-old son happens to be the youngest member of the Thai national olympic boxing team, currently training year-round in a secured facility in the locality of Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) at Khao Yai. After giving me a haircut, the proud father posed with me and his son's trophies and medals (Amassed during a career that began at age 7 (56-3 lifetime record, undefeated professionaly, currently the top-ranked high school boxer in the nation)).

The father said he had fought professionally, gladly handing over the 'mother-stick weapon' to his son when the time came. When I inquired what kind of stick this was, my friend informed me that it was symbolic term, referring to the methodical use of the shins, knees, elbows, fists, and mind.

More on this later (The son is due to return home for a short visit in mid-July because he is frequently on tour or in seclusion at the camp at the restricted camp (he is afforded no contact with females while in training), but the father informed me that for the occasion of his arrival, his shop will become a shrine to his achievement).

I myself am getting ready to spend the weekend at a yet-to be named monastery somewhere in the area (all I know is that there will be a knock on my door at 7 a.m. tomorrow morning, and will be spirited away for a designated period shortly thereafter).

Wish me luck

holy sao-ateet! (weekend [saturday/sunday=wan sao, wan ateet])

I edited this post and included a picture of Mr. Pinyo Pataworn, the foreign relations officer who has been helping me find the necessary accomodations and connections in Khon Kaen.


My motorcycle died on me twice today, apparently I don't know how to read a gas gauge or understand that a soda bottle full of the sweet sweet nectar of freedom will only take me a short distance. Both times my red and white Suzuki puttered to a halt, I began to wonder whether I had rented a lemon. Luckily, both times helpful Thais (they seem to be everywhere) were around, all too willing to point out how stupid I was, and remedy my ignorance with free gasoline, all while having a good laugh at my expense. I seem to have that effect on people out here as I bust out clever quips in the local Isaan(Lao) dialect

(I had a solid lesson last night in Lao language skills while watching the Italy and Germany semifinals (I'm a quick language picker-upper but maybe I'm going to confuse myself by learning 2 new ones at the same time that are so similar {I also won two coffees (60 baht) from the lady outside the internet place}) to the surprise of many (who understandably assume that the color of my skin indicates ignorance of local language and culture {many of the foreign teachers I have met out here do not even make the effort}).

Give me another couple months and I could be reach fluency (I just need to catch a wave off a solid foundational understanding).

-new development-

I went into see (mr.) Pinyo yesterday, who informed me that I would be spending the weekend at an unnamed monastery with some heavy hitters. The day before that I had visited with Dr. Peerasit Kamnuasilpa(did i spell that right) and presented him with a book about Brooklyn, and met one of his associates, a woman nick-named Lek (small in Thai) who boasted of having a special friend who had once been a member of parliament who would probably be delighted to host me at his wat (monastery). Dr. Peerasit seems like a real cool, intelligent guy, and hopefully he will find more time to talk with me in the future.

The suddenness of Pinyo's invitation and the firmness with which he informed me that I was to be picked up at 7 a.m. sharp Saturday morning makes me thankful that I didn't make any promises to other people who have asked me to visit or join them on less relevant expeditions into Laos, Isaan, and Bangkok and/or in and around Khon Kaen. I will be picked up sometime on Monday by the same unnamed person that will take me there (I love the suspense of these mysteries).

This will be an excellent opportunity to build the foundation necessary to document my research on film, because, as a rule, I will not shove a camera into someone's face or carry it on my person until I have been assured of some agreement and desire of the monks or kickboxers to do so.

Also, if a member of parliament chose to join this monastery (the motivation for his ordination intrigues me as I read the newspapers daily) it must be exceptionally holy. In addition, this is a very special time of year to be hanging in and around a monastery because the monks will be preparing for Buddhist Lent, a major holiday (wan yud [day stop]) that will close businesses and schools monday and tuesday as the monks (are obliged to) begin 3 months of a higher level of abstinence.

I'll fill you in more on this holiday in the near future, and hopefully I will have time to give my initial impressions of the Sangha before the monks have a chance to speak for themselves this weekend.

Relevant?

Artist: Wu-Tang Clan
Album:  Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers)
Song:   Da Mystery of Chessboxin'
Typed by: OHHLA Webmaster DJ Flash

[Wu-tang movie dialogue]
The game of chess, is like a swordfight
You must think first, before you move
Toad style is immensely strong, and immune to nearly any weapon
When it's properly used, it's almost invincible

If this mystery gets solved, the Wu-Tang Clan ought to protect its neck.

https://web.mail.umich.edu/horde/services/go.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsports.espn.go.com%2Fespn%2Feticket%2Fstory%3Fpage%3Dchessboxing

I think it's a great idea, but most people who reach the upper echelons of each discipline tend to gravitate toward polar opposites of the intensity spectrum. I think this 'artist' is onto something in his Darwinian quest for bipolar man, but there don't seem to be enough participants yet to see his ideas be implemented to the fullest potential.

The Wutang Clan promotes the notion of 'Shaolin Worldwide', correctly noting that orders of monastic warriors already exist (have existed) in almost every culture. After all, the practical training of Muay Thai was confined to the temple grounds (the center of the community) up until a century ago, when the King continued a series of 'modernizing'(Westernizing) reforms that consolidated Bangkok's power, and made his kingdom more presentable to the encroaching colonial military forces (the reforms were successful in this historical sense, as Thai diplomatic tact allows the nation to boast of being the only Southeast Asian country that was never formally colonized).

One way this was achieved was through centralization of Buddhist authority into a state-sanctioned body that created uniform guidelines for religious practice, including the official banishment of Muay Thai training from temple grounds, severing the formal ties of the boxing world and the Sangha in the creation of a more coherent and (in Western eyes) more acceptable form of Buddhism, whose moral and political authority would from now on be formally radiated from the capital.

Artist: Wu-Tang Clan
Album:  Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers)
Song:   Bring Da Ruckus

Intro:

[Wu-tang movie dialogue]

Shaolin shadowboxing, and the Wu-Tang sword style
If what you say is true, the Shaolin and the Wu-Tang
could be dangerous
Do you think your Wu-Tang sword can defeat me?

En garde, I'll let you try my Wu-Tang style

I have a few noteworthy developments to detail, but I'll hold off for now.

interlude

"The bugs out there, oh man they're mean. They know you're from out of town, so they'll come right after you. You better bring loads of bug spray. "

++-_-_-++ Moriero 'Sal' Celestino warning me of the dangers of this region, his knowledge acquired from veterans of the Vietnam War and his experience as a truck driver along the Northeastern seaboard (in the US).++-_-_-++

Insect repellent was an excellent recommendation, and Sal's thoughtful and sincere advice has minimized my suffering here in the jungle.

I am skeptical about his claim that a fatal razor attack on the northeastern plain remains (or was ever) a prevalent danger posed by women clever in the art of concealment. In any case, its not quite as hairy in the Maekhong Delta as it was in the 60's and 70's, although the Bangkok Post is convinced that there will be a military coup as soon as August. The divided politico-military camps will plunge the nation into chaos if the current political quagmire is not resolved, the potential disaster being posed by a dissolved parliament that must reconvene to set the budget for next year.

I had to write down Sal's quote as soon as I was dismissed from his presence, and as i reach down to scratch my shins and ankles, i laugh, thankful that this minor annoyance reminded of his uniquely colorful lessons of experience, conveyed with flowery words that could only be belong to a lifelong resident of South Yonkers of Portuguese/Italian.

I've got a good feeling that KKU will be a perfect base for my operations in the Northeast, and the sprawling campus of 20,000 heads proves to be city within itself. The resistance that stifles my ambition (heat, immobility, rain, relatively alien terrain, communication failures, cholera), is lessened by the day as I continue to acquire allies in support of my global march to power (knowledge = power, it's in the thesaurus right?).

The best news of my trip thus far: I found the best burger that I have sampled thus far in Southeast Asia (Although it IS hard to beat Burger King (The only sovereign that I recognize officially (I have to be careful about making comments here in Thailand, where it is punishable slander to disrespect their beloved King Rama-Chakri)). The burgers are within walking distance from my apartment, but thankfully I got a Suzuki this afternoon to carry me there, around campus, and into the the city, to the boxing camps, assorted temples(wats) when need be (I have to get in better shape to be a credible kickboxer, but my soul is a higher priority than its physical vessel). For longer trips, i will rely on Thailand's reliable public transportation.

Once again, I haven't touched on anything that I really want to talk about. I'll need to set aside more time tomorrow.