Rice or Riches? are they impossible to seperate when it comes to choosing?

F> Y > I>

2007-05-01T09:47:00.000-07:00

i need help taking my thesis in new directions in order to gain a coherent focus. this requires criticism and dialogue. if you have any sort of google account(gmail, hotmail, who knows what else, you have a license to tear apart any argument i make if you are capable) anything goes in the thunderdome if it brings you closer to #1 in UBON.

and, if for some reason you havent caught the technological wave and haven;t mastered the art of signing up for a free email account, its probably not worth it to waste your time and learn now.

i dont mean to be offensive, only provocatating

testing

2007-05-01T09:38:00.000-07:00

i always forget the name of this stadium, but it is a place for televised fights on the outskirts ofbangkok behind a big permanent market and royal coconut plantation. like all major stadiums (those legitimated by television broadcasts) are strictly regulated by the military, which has a monopoly on the muay thai business (in competetion and cahoots with the inherent criminal element that so definitively accompanies any high stakes blood sport throughout the world)
this is me at the entrance to mahachulalonkorn university, the building in vision is the temple that i foget the name of, but if i looked at my notes i might confirm it as wat thaat. these photos were randomly numbered AND selected in the hope there might be a story behind them

correctio

2007-05-01T09:33:00.000-07:00

i know the title is spelled wrong, but please bear with me. i dont like to revise my posts from the past because they just reflect my initial impression and it is up to me to reevaluate what really happened in a later post. i am starting to feel better about getting work down with my injury now that my family has called off their 5-pronged assault, but i realize that my initial feelings of failure upon departure from khon kaen were an illusion caused by a fatal delusion.

in any case this concussion has served a great purpose in giving me a new lens to reexamine why i did not have time (or did i just neglect my duty?) to post when i was actually in the field pursuing my thesis. my apologies to all the people who genuine did their best to help me and facilitate my introductions so necessary to my experience both official and unexpected.

Welcome Back

2007-04-27T17:55:00.000-07:00

I apologize, I suffered a rather severe concussion a couple of weeks ago and now understand why so many of the boxers are very friendly, but try to stand off when people try to start trouble for them. Anyway, I should have snuck in a little more of the study while i was studying for finals, but my current mind state is concussed and unable to focus on anything that isn;t pure in its simplicity. anyway, i will taake the opportunity to change the name of my blog and upload pictures with my fast connection that will help me better understand the thesis that emerged

apologies for spelllcheck, but hte concentration this requires right now is rather painful

Hobos not Showbos

2007-04-11T18:03:00.000-07:00

There is a hobo coronation every year Iowa that I have not serialized, but beware of the ones just in it for the honey.

It's been way too long, but if you inspect my posts clearly, my attitude about what I was doing was changing daily. Unfortunately, this situation was not conducive to a coherent lens from which to view my subjects. Although I have many regrets, I feel that experience is the best teacher. The passage of time (although maybe unreasonably long) provides a new distance from which to reexamine the initial notions that may have been lost during the swirl of my activity with the people of Isaan, but are readily available for reclamation through photographic flashbacks.

#1 in Ubon

2006-08-20T21:20:00.000-07:00

After a long hiatus from the internet (i spent most of the last week in the middle of a ricefield, penned in by torrential rain), i am ready to post again. Last Saturday, I hopped on a bus to Ubon Ratchatani, or Ubon, to pay a visit to an American professor, Dr. Peter Vail, who has done extensive work with Muay Thai fighters in the past.

Vail is currently doing linguistic research among the ethnically diverse populations of Isaan (straddling the Lao and Cambodian borders) whose political status remains hazy more than 2 decades following regional demographic-shifting conflicts. The Khmer, Suai, Lao, and Guay ethnolinguistic groups are all well represented in the Muay Thai world, even if their status as Thai citizens remains a persistent question. I'm content with getting down as much Thai/Lao as possible for now.

I arrived in Ubon in the rain, a theme that would persist throughout the week. Motoring across the sprawling city, I had the oportunity to visit several muay thai camps that each offered a different view of the life of a muay thai fighter. With two helpful guides named Pooky and Boy, students at Ubonratchatani University, we set out from the university area (15 km outside of the city) on a daily basis to conduct our survey. Although we visited a half dozen camps, two in particular grabbed my attention.

Slow times on the khlong

2006-08-08T21:02:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Bangkok early Friday morning, and the Morchit bus station was already bustling. From Morchit, I checked out the Chatuchak weekend market, located at the Skytrain stop that is also puzzlingly named Morchit.

There I picked up a bag that would more comfortably accomodate my video camera and enhance my mobility when I reached Thonburi, my Muay Thai destination. After a brief stop at a huge electronics mall near Ratchetewi in central Bangkok, I was off to figure out how to locate my friend Krailadh in the somewhat less bustling, but equally confusing streets and lanes across the river.

It is important to note the enormous cultural leap that one makes once he hits the streets of Bangkok. Although many of the people may trace their roots to the provinces, there is a very definite departure from the markedly slower place of even the provincial metropolitan centers. The chaotic sprawl of this fabled city is so full of buses, tuk-tuks, cars, and swarming motorcycles that it seems to be held together with an atmospheric glue of steam and exhaust fumes.

When one hops into a cab in central Bangkok, a dramatic change occurs somewhere along the way on the other side river, where the old capital of Thonburi quickly transitions into areas of stunning greenery, seemingly unthinkable moments before. Palm trees, bushes and winding canals(khlongs) are interpersed with more sparsely sprouting residences that indicate what Bangkok looked like before it became a concrete jungle of businessmen, swindlers, noodle jockeys and slaves(although piled and scattered garbage is still a ubiquitous presence). During the long taxi ride, the driver(who happened to be from Khon Kaen) and I discussed the difference in the lifestyle in Bangkok and Isaan, and we both agreed that the food was better in Isaan, but he explained that the money available in Bangkok is worth the sacrifice of the laid-back lifestyle of his home in the village, where he supported a wife and two children, splitting time and money between another wife and two children in Bangkok.

Following several confusing telephone conversations between the taxi driver and my host, Krailath, we finally ground to a halt by a som tam (Isaan papaya salad) stand along one of the unending Sois (sidestreets) that snake from the main roads with no outlet. This allowed Krailath, who is infinitely more familiar with the layout of the area, to track me down on his bike. The taxi driver treated me to a mid-afternoon snack of ground pork, chili peppers, and pigskin, accompanied by the everpresent/delicious sticky rice that characterizes Isaan cuisine, as we waited for Krailath to arrive.

Kingstar Revisited

2006-08-03T21:01:00.000-07:00

Going it alone really hasn't worked that well, because travelling around what amounts to the countryside surrounding the university can be as baffling as trying to fight a jellyfish with your feet. Having gone to visit the Kingstar training camp (the proving ground of gold-medalist and national hero Somlak Kuamsing) two weeks ago and spoken to a trainer named Chanasuk, I had been hesitant to go back because Chanasuk had taken flight to Bangkok(presumably to train fighters), which his wife(still in khon kaen) regrettably informed me when my friend called his number

A friend of mine whose father was acquainted with the owner of the camp tracked down the number of his tailor shop in the city. Unfortunately, his discussion of muay thai revolved around the 'third wheels' that have given him so much trouble (outside influences that try to draw away the boxers' allegiance in the gambling oriented sport) including pulling away great boxers like Somlak Kauamsing from his sphere of influence. Gambling is a big part of boxing everywhere, accompanied by the corruption that can tempt the individuals who fight for a living. Fortunately, the owner gave me his blessing to proceed with my research at the camp.

When I revisited the camp, a different trainer was there, with even greater credentials than Chanasuk, who was a national champion. This trainer, a little older and more worse for the wear, claimed to be great friends with Somlak Kuamsing, which I don't doubt. The trainer, whose name is Dhawee Umponmaha, was the first Thai to win a silver medal as an Olympic Boxer. He recounted his experience at he 1984 summer games in Los Angeles, as well as his journey to gold at the the Southeast Asian games. One of 10 children from a village near Pattaya, Dhawee became a professional at the age of 9 when he went to Chantaburi, after he and the rest of his brothers spent time as a novice monk following the death of his parents.

I am going back to the Kingstar camp this afternoon, and have plans to spend the weekend inBangkok, visiting a friend who is also a kickboxer and possibly making an appearance at Kingstar's Bangkok branch.

Punkery

2006-08-01T07:21:00.000-07:00

Well I finally got soem tangible work done when I went to Wat Tep fully equipped to interview the Mahachulalongkorn students with (questionable) translator in tow. Although my bag was light, I felt weighed down by my newly-purchased digital voice recorder, digital camera, and digital video camera. I thought the gadgets would overwhelm my prospective interviewees (is that the right word?) and put a wedge in your communication, but was comforted by the confines of the temple, freeing me from my fear of bandits.

The translator that came recommended to me proved to be less of a utility than I had hoped, because all of the monks were eager to speak in English with me (seeing that the language was part of their course of study at the monk university).

I had met several of the monks in the city the day before, where they had swarmed me with digital recorders when I had gone to visit Wat Nong Wen with the afformentioned Kanokporn as my guide (a short-lived association, seeing as I was unable to overcome the unending barrage of questions from a steady stream of young and eager monks, emerging from the fog dazed and disoriented). The tourist-attracting beauty of Wat Nong Wen's 9-tiered edifice seemed to be the perfect trap for their English project.

Once inside the monastery/university, I was invited to the third floor office of a monk/english teacher named Phra Narlong, who also requested that I be a guest speaker at his class. He was quite knowledgeable about muay thai, and acknowledged its recreational importance during his youth growing up in the central provinces. His enthusiasm for the sport was demonstrated by his promise that a few monks in his entourage could show me a few moves. This was somewhat suprising to me, but he was quick to note the prevalence of muay thai bouts at seasonal temple fairs and the historical role of the monk as master of the martial art. A frequent visitor to his hometown, he noted the predominant position that soccer had taken as the sport of choice, although the top boxers uniformly emerged from the rural poor.

Entering the classroom, I was greeted enthusiastically. I had hoped to have a more individualized sit-down with the monks, but perhaps it was more interesting to get a broader picture of those who had come to study at the university.

Phra Narlong was quite knowledgeable and outspoken, but with the translator in tow, i felt obligated to speak with monks with a leser command of the language. I next moved onto Phra Halls, whose spirited elucidation of his beliefs is in the process of translation (hopefully not lost). Hopefully I will be able to elaborate on these exchanges in the near future, depending on the quality of the translation, but the common reasoning behind all the monks' ordination was to become a better person and to bring honor upon the family, with many hoping to oneday study in India.

Coming into the class, I was greeted enthusiastically. I had hoped to make more individualized inquiries, but my introduction to the broad range of students studying english was enlighteneing. I was surprised to note that undergraduates ranged from the age of 20-36 ranging from distant provinces of 3 countries in a single classroom.

One particular student, who I interviewed on video in front of the class, was a 24-year-old from Bangkok who had once studied as a university layman in Bangkok, favoring a 'punk' lifestyle. He described himself as a 'nakleng', or street tough/gangster, who had broken his mother's heart when he was expelled from school. The reasoning behind choice to be ordained was expressed with unmatched sincerity, as he descrbed his struggle to improve his life for the good of both himself and most importantly his mother.

I would like to explore further the issue of monks from Laos, because their monastic ambitions may be of most import to my research.

Moving on

2006-07-27T03:09:00.000-07:00

With the introductory aid of Ajahn Tepporn, a KKU Buddhist philosophy professor, I am preparing for a long day of interviewing monks at Mahachulalongkorn University's branch in Khon Kaen with the aid of a translator and my trusty (perhaps rusty) camera. Many of the monks I have talked to to arrange this meeting are Lao nationals, which sheds an interesting light on my socioeconomic inquiries of the institutional practice.

Although the tempo of life here is relaxed, I cannot believed how fast time has passed. I have been frustrated by the inconsistency of some inquiries, and the cultural inclination of the Thais to skirt more sensitive issues with a smile and a verbal wink is hard to navigate. As an unwitting American, risk of offense is something to be feared, but transgression may not be overtly indicated.

Especially in the case of monks, some of the questions I hope to pose may be perceived as a questioning of their faith and motives, so tactfulness will be key. The attitude of some of the monks and villagers I have talked to makes me understand the inconsistency of the local practice, complicated by the itinerance of individual monks. Although stories of abuse of authority within the monastic order are rampant, the advantages of the position can also be exploited for positive purposes as well. There is a definite understanding that all monks are not created equal, although the rituals are uniform.

Ban Phai Lent

2006-07-23T06:01:00.000-07:00

Having inquired about the monk/politician that would play my host as well as the Buddhist holiday we would be celebrating, I was still unfamiliar with the rituals required of monastic guests. Needless to say, I found kow-towing to be quite a discomfort, both physically painful and ceremonially perplexing as an extended guest in the home of two monks. As I was ushered into the surprisingly well appointed home of Premsak and his fellow monk, I did my best to introduce myself and make a good impression. Unfortunately, in my tired, confused, and inflexible state, I was found fidgeting awkardly on my knees after kissing the ground three times to demonstrate my submission. The monks, recognizing my visibly masked pain, invited me to take a seat on a chair outside on the porch, an invitation i accepted reluctantly.

One of the things that most impressed about the local who frequented the temple was the ease and apparent comfort they found kneeling on the concrete or negligibly cushioned straw mats in various improbable configurations of the limbs and joints. The athleticism required to achieve this level of flexibility and mobility must be tremendous, and even the most enfeebled of the elderly devotees of the temple required no visible effort to remain in the most compromising (for me at least) positions for hours. I guess the maxim 'repetition is the mother of perfection' does carry some weight, because by the end of my stay at Wat 'Pim', i found my body pretzeled in ways i never thought possible, made possible by an intense stretching session in the sala (place of prayer and communal meals) led by an energetic eighty year-old peasant woman.

I am certain that I would have a lot more to say about the experience had i been fluent in Thai and Isaan, but in functional intercontinental practice, actions often(or always) speak louder than words. More on my impressions of the temple coming shortly.

Pictures

2006-07-19T02:02:00.000-07:00

don't seem to have loaded, and I don't seem to have started my story about the temple. I rented a different bike today after hoofing for 3 days so I could get to Kanokporn's (Former U of M student and current administrative officer at KKU) exhibition at the culture and arts museum, located about 4 or 5 miles away from my apartment, although both are on or near campus (this school is ridiculously massive). Kanokporn was part of a team that created the museum presentation about life along the mae nam khong (Mae Khong River is actually a redundant title), where alongside some beautiful photos on the wall, i learned that Ho Chi Minh grew up in Thailand and the Vietnamese cultural tradition of eating dog prepared in various forms had been adopted in the last half-century by the greater ethnic populations that find their livelihood along the famed river, home to the biggest freshwater fish in the world.

Unfortunately, learning these fun facts was not quite so easy. just as I was entering the parking lot, i wiped out, making Khon Kaen's famously red soil a little bit redder. I added a fresh gash to my right elbow while evening out the deeply creeping bruises that now will adorn both thighs and even out my gait.

This time, I wore a helmet, but my bike wasnt so lucky, although I hazard to guess that that is the story of its life. I ripped out the previously unresponsive handbrake as I fell and shattered the rearview mirror, making it only slightly more dangerous to drive. I'll trade it in tomorrow, knowing that all the bikes available have been similarly abused. As walking becomes a less and less appealing option, I am starting to wonder if there's somewhere to trade in my arms and legs.

Kanokporn has promised to score me some betel nut chew, an appealing product that I saw in the mouths of several toothless women when I was in Ban Phai. If red, corroded teeth would only come back into fashion, I'm pretty sure I could come up with some million-dollar marketing gimmicks.

I need to find a good ride or spend my whole time here in constant pain and/or the hospital. I think I'm going to get out of town for a little while and let Thailand's public transport decide my fate. Progress comes in tremendous spurts here so far.

Ee lee ee law ga daw ga dia ('for real' in isaan)

2006-07-19T01:13:00.000-07:00

On Google, I found this article (plagiarized)
http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/06/08/headlines/headlines_30006079.
php The text is copied below.

Phra Premsak in monkhood til the end of year

Former Thai Rak Thai partylist MP Premsak Phiayura said yesterday he
would stay in the monkhood until at least the end of the year and urged
three top national leaders to follow in his footsteps.

Speaking at Wat Nanthapimparam in his home province of Khon Kaen, he
said he had been in the monkhood for 90 days, and was content teaching
and helping the local people.

Premsak was known as an outspoken politician and was once a staunch
defender of the Thai Rak Thai Party. But he joined the opposition
parties and People's Alliance for Democracy in criticising Prime
Minister Thaksin Shinawatra shortly before the House dissolution on
February 24.

Premsak said he decided to enter the monkhood as an encouragement for
all sides in the conflicts to hold talks to try to end the political
deadlock.

Following Cabinet secretarygeneral Borwornsak Uwanno's resignation and
decision to enter the monkhood to make merit on the occasion of the 60th
anniversary of His Majesty the King's accession to the throne on
Tuesday, Premsak suggested Thaksin, Senate Speaker Suchon Chaleekrua and
Election Commission chairman Vasana Puemlarp consider following suit.

"They should leave their political posts for the sake of the whole
nation, which will also lessen the sins they have committed against us,"
Premsak said.

The Nation

I really must apologize for the extended neglect of my blog, especially because my last post was only the beginning of a story. Actually, i just looked at my last post and realized that I had not even said anything, so hopefully i can finish that thought and move on to other things that i am doing.

Anyway, Pao and her friend took me to Wat 'Pim' for my weekend of monkery, but the exact details of the morning are a little hazy due to my semi-conscious state at the time. The temple's archway entrance was well-appointed, and i anticipated my own arrival with equal parts excitement, exhaustion, and dread.

Mai dee dtaa muan ee lee duhr (not finished with story, first thing that i can elaborate on)

2006-07-13T23:30:00.000-07:00

4 days removed from my visit to Wat Pim'only remember the nickname' in Ban Phai, I hope I can still document my experience in detail. I took notes in a composition book during the time i was there and elaborated on them in the days following. Unfortunately, I forgot to retrieve the book when I flipped my motorcycle on wednesday, mistakenly joyriding through a pothole at top-speed (not really all that fast in my rented 100-CC not-mean looking red and white Suzuki).

I managed to divert the impact of the crash from my helmetless skull, deftly shielding the concrete from doing more serious damage with my ample thighs ( now deeply bruised and minimally mobile) and unfortunately destructable hand/forearm/elbow/foot. I was surprised to be able to walk away from the unwitnessed accident with relatively superficial injuries, remembering to collect my license plate as i stumbled to the side of the road to check where blood was coming from. I was overjoyed to find that the bike, already somewhat of an antique, still functioned, albeit with a few new quirks in the gearshift and ignition.

The book, which must be somewhere out near the road, is no big loss.

The particular circumstances of my monastic experience leads me to believe that some of the interactions and consultations that i witnessed within and without the monastery were highly unusual. In some cases, the deftly clouded explanations i received regarding these events can be regarded as 'shady', or suspiciously unholy behavior, but perhaps that is what one would expect from a 'disgraced?' popular politician turned monk.

As stated earlier, I was picked up from my apartment at 6:45 a.m. by a KKU professor's sister (who i later learned is enrolled as a freshman business english major at the age of 32). I do not understand why we left so early, and I still don't, because the trip to rural Ban Phai was no great distance. Maybe my flawed morning punctuality can be blamed for this confusion. Accompanying the sister was a friend who was never formally introduced (or if she was, i didn't notice in my sleep-deprived daze).

Hungry and tired, we stopped at the beginning of the trip to get breakfast at 7-11, consisting of a green syrup bun and a tiny styrafoam cup of coffee was packaged in an intensely sweetened (as most Thai drinks are) prepackaged teabag.

Some of the intense flavors favored by the thais, especially the penchant for fermented fish, assorted entrails, and drinks that can only be described as syrup with a splash of water that come in flavors ranging from coffee to pickled plum (tastes and has the consistency of duck sauce at a chinese restaurant), are too much for me to handle in excess, although i enjoy testing the brawn of my tastebuds when i get into chili eating contests with my local friends (i previously held the belief that isaan people had evolved to be invulnerable to the searing pain that sometimes endures for hours).

a little back ground. (i hope to add links and commentary but i dont know enough yet)

2006-07-11T00:01:00.000-07:00

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/03/15/headlines/headlines_20002779.php

http://news.xinhuanet.com/english/2006-03/13/content_4299149.htm

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/02/20/national/national_20001222.php

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/search/page.news.php?clid=2&id=20002707

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/03/13/politics/politics_20002596.php

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/option/print.php?newsid=20002557

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/06/08/headlines/headlines_30006079.php

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/search/page.arcview.php?clid=4&id=74528&usrsess=

http://www.nationmultimedia.com/2006/06/07/headlines/headlines_30005940.php

Preparing for Lent

2006-07-07T02:15:00.000-07:00

"Will it come to 'that'?"

This is the front-page headline of 'The Nation', whose Political Desk grabbed my attention by taking '...a look at the possibilities and at how well-eqipped Thaksin Shinawatra is militarily to survive politically', showcasing 3 photos of high-profile generals who could contend for power in the event of a coup. In one potential case, Shinawatra would topple his own government, and rewrite the constitution on his own terms, in order to 'correct' the current constitutional guidelines that have produced such flawed democratic processes.

It's funny that the newspaper can discuss these scenarios so openly in a country where freedom of expression can be so severely restricted when it comes to sensitive matters such as the king (Rama IX), whose image or seal is displayed on almost every wall and billboard in the country. Shinawatra, a colorful character that opponents and critics have accused of political treachery, appears more and more flagrant in his disrespect or disregard for the current political institutions. He is currently accused of financing fictitious political parties to oppose him in the recent elections that were boycotted by the opposition, elections that he would have won because of his party's immense popularity among the rural poor that enjoy the windfall of its populist (if corruptly so) practices.

The charismatic Shinawatra seems to be fed up with compulsory deference to a crown that has been a politically and socially infallible icon in Thailand since the authoritarian government established by a 1958 military coup decided that the official installation of traditional cultural paternalist practices, including deified royal reverence, would combat the growing threat from the left and to justify and legitimize the violent coup.

Since April, Thaksin has been in charge of a 'caretaker government', having dissolving parliament to prove the democratic mandate of the power that he and his personally financed Thai Rak Thai (Thais Love Thais) have held since 2001.

Being the richest man in Thailand, Thaksin, a graduate of Sam Houston State, rose to power through the wealth(prestige) acquired through his monopolization of the national telecommunications industry. The pen may be mightier than the sword, but this maxim may be rendered inconsequential here in the context of the crony/clan-market capitalist political economy Thailand where there is a realistic possibility of buying both the biggest pen and the sharpest sword. I am intrigued by the developing political turmoil and may return to it frequently.

$$$Change of Topic$$$

A friend of mine introduced me to a local barber whose 15-year-old son happens to be the youngest member of the Thai national olympic boxing team, currently training year-round in a secured facility in the locality of Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) at Khao Yai. After giving me a haircut, the proud father posed with me and his son's trophies and medals (Amassed during a career that began at age 7 (56-3 lifetime record, undefeated professionaly, currently the top-ranked high school boxer in the nation)).

The father said he had fought professionally, gladly handing over the 'mother-stick weapon' to his son when the time came. When I inquired what kind of stick this was, my friend informed me that it was symbolic term, referring to the methodical use of the shins, knees, elbows, fists, and mind.

More on this later (The son is due to return home for a short visit in mid-July because he is frequently on tour or in seclusion at the camp at the restricted camp (he is afforded no contact with females while in training), but the father informed me that for the occasion of his arrival, his shop will become a shrine to his achievement).

I myself am getting ready to spend the weekend at a yet-to be named monastery somewhere in the area (all I know is that there will be a knock on my door at 7 a.m. tomorrow morning, and will be spirited away for a designated period shortly thereafter).

Wish me luck

holy sao-ateet! (weekend [saturday/sunday=wan sao, wan ateet])

2006-07-05T03:30:00.000-07:00

I edited this post and included a picture of Mr. Pinyo Pataworn, the foreign relations officer who has been helping me find the necessary accomodations and connections in Khon Kaen.

My motorcycle died on me twice today, apparently I don't know how to read a gas gauge or understand that a soda bottle full of the sweet sweet nectar of freedom will only take me a short distance. Both times my red and white Suzuki puttered to a halt, I began to wonder whether I had rented a lemon. Luckily, both times helpful Thais (they seem to be everywhere) were around, all too willing to point out how stupid I was, and remedy my ignorance with free gasoline, all while having a good laugh at my expense. I seem to have that effect on people out here as I bust out clever quips in the local Isaan(Lao) dialect

(I had a solid lesson last night in Lao language skills while watching the Italy and Germany semifinals (I'm a quick language picker-upper but maybe I'm going to confuse myself by learning 2 new ones at the same time that are so similar {I also won two coffees (60 baht) from the lady outside the internet place}) to the surprise of many (who understandably assume that the color of my skin indicates ignorance of local language and culture {many of the foreign teachers I have met out here do not even make the effort}).

Give me another couple months and I could be reach fluency (I just need to catch a wave off a solid foundational understanding).

-new development-

I went into see (mr.) Pinyo yesterday, who informed me that I would be spending the weekend at an unnamed monastery with some heavy hitters. The day before that I had visited with Dr. Peerasit Kamnuasilpa(did i spell that right) and presented him with a book about Brooklyn, and met one of his associates, a woman nick-named Lek (small in Thai) who boasted of having a special friend who had once been a member of parliament who would probably be delighted to host me at his wat (monastery). Dr. Peerasit seems like a real cool, intelligent guy, and hopefully he will find more time to talk with me in the future.

The suddenness of Pinyo's invitation and the firmness with which he informed me that I was to be picked up at 7 a.m. sharp Saturday morning makes me thankful that I didn't make any promises to other people who have asked me to visit or join them on less relevant expeditions into Laos, Isaan, and Bangkok and/or in and around Khon Kaen. I will be picked up sometime on Monday by the same unnamed person that will take me there (I love the suspense of these mysteries).

This will be an excellent opportunity to build the foundation necessary to document my research on film, because, as a rule, I will not shove a camera into someone's face or carry it on my person until I have been assured of some agreement and desire of the monks or kickboxers to do so.

Also, if a member of parliament chose to join this monastery (the motivation for his ordination intrigues me as I read the newspapers daily) it must be exceptionally holy. In addition, this is a very special time of year to be hanging in and around a monastery because the monks will be preparing for Buddhist Lent, a major holiday (wan yud [day stop]) that will close businesses and schools monday and tuesday as the monks (are obliged to) begin 3 months of a higher level of abstinence.

I'll fill you in more on this holiday in the near future, and hopefully I will have time to give my initial impressions of the Sangha before the monks have a chance to speak for themselves this weekend.

Relevant?

2006-07-04T04:44:00.000-07:00

Artist: Wu-Tang Clan
Album:  Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers)
Song:   Da Mystery of Chessboxin'
Typed by: OHHLA Webmaster DJ Flash

[Wu-tang movie dialogue]
The game of chess, is like a swordfight
You must think first, before you move
Toad style is immensely strong, and immune to nearly any weapon
When it's properly used, it's almost invincible

If this mystery gets solved, the Wu-Tang Clan ought to protect its neck.

https://web.mail.umich.edu/horde/services/go.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsports.espn.go.com%2Fespn%2Feticket%2Fstory%3Fpage%3Dchessboxing

I think it's a great idea, but most people who reach the upper echelons of each discipline tend to gravitate toward polar opposites of the intensity spectrum. I think this 'artist' is onto something in his Darwinian quest for bipolar man, but there don't seem to be enough participants yet to see his ideas be implemented to the fullest potential.

The Wutang Clan promotes the notion of 'Shaolin Worldwide', correctly noting that orders of monastic warriors already exist (have existed) in almost every culture. After all, the practical training of Muay Thai was confined to the temple grounds (the center of the community) up until a century ago, when the King continued a series of 'modernizing'(Westernizing) reforms that consolidated Bangkok's power, and made his kingdom more presentable to the encroaching colonial military forces (the reforms were successful in this historical sense, as Thai diplomatic tact allows the nation to boast of being the only Southeast Asian country that was never formally colonized).

One way this was achieved was through centralization of Buddhist authority into a state-sanctioned body that created uniform guidelines for religious practice, including the official banishment of Muay Thai training from temple grounds, severing the formal ties of the boxing world and the Sangha in the creation of a more coherent and (in Western eyes) more acceptable form of Buddhism, whose moral and political authority would from now on be formally radiated from the capital.

Artist: Wu-Tang Clan
Album:  Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers)
Song:   Bring Da Ruckus

Intro:

[Wu-tang movie dialogue]

Shaolin shadowboxing, and the Wu-Tang sword style
If what you say is true, the Shaolin and the Wu-Tang
could be dangerous
Do you think your Wu-Tang sword can defeat me?

En garde, I'll let you try my Wu-Tang style

I have a few noteworthy developments to detail, but I'll hold off for now.

interlude

2006-07-03T08:37:00.000-07:00

"The bugs out there, oh man they're mean. They know you're from out of town, so they'll come right after you. You better bring loads of bug spray. "

++-_-_-++ Moriero 'Sal' Celestino warning me of the dangers of this region, his knowledge acquired from veterans of the Vietnam War and his experience as a truck driver along the Northeastern seaboard (in the US).++-_-_-++

Insect repellent was an excellent recommendation, and Sal's thoughtful and sincere advice has minimized my suffering here in the jungle.

I am skeptical about his claim that a fatal razor attack on the northeastern plain remains (or was ever) a prevalent danger posed by women clever in the art of concealment. In any case, its not quite as hairy in the Maekhong Delta as it was in the 60's and 70's, although the Bangkok Post is convinced that there will be a military coup as soon as August. The divided politico-military camps will plunge the nation into chaos if the current political quagmire is not resolved, the potential disaster being posed by a dissolved parliament that must reconvene to set the budget for next year.

I had to write down Sal's quote as soon as I was dismissed from his presence, and as i reach down to scratch my shins and ankles, i laugh, thankful that this minor annoyance reminded of his uniquely colorful lessons of experience, conveyed with flowery words that could only be belong to a lifelong resident of South Yonkers of Portuguese/Italian.

I've got a good feeling that KKU will be a perfect base for my operations in the Northeast, and the sprawling campus of 20,000 heads proves to be city within itself. The resistance that stifles my ambition (heat, immobility, rain, relatively alien terrain, communication failures, cholera), is lessened by the day as I continue to acquire allies in support of my global march to power (knowledge = power, it's in the thesaurus right?).

The best news of my trip thus far: I found the best burger that I have sampled thus far in Southeast Asia (Although it IS hard to beat Burger King (The only sovereign that I recognize officially (I have to be careful about making comments here in Thailand, where it is punishable slander to disrespect their beloved King Rama-Chakri)). The burgers are within walking distance from my apartment, but thankfully I got a Suzuki this afternoon to carry me there, around campus, and into the the city, to the boxing camps, assorted temples(wats) when need be (I have to get in better shape to be a credible kickboxer, but my soul is a higher priority than its physical vessel). For longer trips, i will rely on Thailand's reliable public transportation.

Once again, I haven't touched on anything that I really want to talk about. I'll need to set aside more time tomorrow.

Breathrough via Mr. Biggs...?

2006-06-30T10:37:00.000-07:00

Mr. Biggs is a grizzled veteran of Isaan life. Many details about his life and his understanding of Thai culture shared with me this afternoon/evening may be inappropriate for those who worry about my safety, but he may prove to be the most invaluable resource to achieve sharpenedly original insight through examination of the interweaving intrigues of the vicious sport of muay thai and the harmonious worldview that the lens of Buddhism is supposed to reflect on believers and hangers-on.

Looking up, edging forward

2006-06-27T05:39:00.000-07:00

1. I knew it would take a long time to get around to a new post, but sitting here in a leather recliner in a internet place on campus, I realize that I am the only person out of one hundred that is not either killing wizards and mutated elephants or shooting balloons and killer fish with sharpened coconuts (from what i can gather, the thai youth love their video games). Adults seem to be more into karaoke and generally subdued Thai-style mayhem in between world cup matches.

My chameleon-like skin is thick and calloused(i just remembered that i could have bought one at the weekend market in Bangkok for $50), so i am able to successfully transition between demographics, which makes for a more interesting (if more perilous) experience.

I feel very safe now that I have secured a luxurious apartment with hot water, western-style bathroom, hi-speed internet, cable, and apparently a couple of foreign teachers down the hall (my sharp spanish wit will come in handy even here! goofing off and eating candy seems to be a global past-time (sorry Jimmy Carter, you're not the only one)) for only a little more than 100 dollars a month. considering that the price i will be paying for accommodation is more than the annual salary of most people in the region, i feel a little guilty (maybe i will remember these times fondly when i go broke and consider a career as a cane-harvester to support an ever-expanding family, but hopefully my education will pay off somewhere down the line!).

_-4 hour break in writing and final realization that the rain is not going to stop any time soon (no pictures this time, i WAS going to get my camera)-_

Today is Wednesday (soon to be Thursday(or Wan Pardoohaht in Thai(incidentally my favorite day to say emphatically))), which makes it 5 days here in Khon Kaen(I think), something like almost 2 weeks in Thailand, which has been enough time to realize that the logistics of my research are no longer worrisome(the execution of which will require the most energy).

The more time i spend with the Thais, the Laos (which is most often the 'true' ethnicity of Isaan people(the regional dialect is pretty much the same as Lao), the more i realize how strong the sociocultural mores really are. The Buddhist culture is strong throughout the country, especially in Isaan where some groups throw animism into the mix with tattoo and rice whiskey driven ceremonies ( i read it in a book and it had pictures to back up its claims), and even the deep south where there is a long running crisis being mismanaged by the central government due to a resurgent wave of violence by muslim separatists that is partially a reaction to the officially mandated predominance of Buddhism. need to do more research on the issues, but Thailand annexed the territory in 1902.

The rebels tend to kill police officers, government troops, and anyone involved with the central government (understandable), but some of their favorite targets are elementary and secondary school teachers (not cool) who now need to be escorted by the military to and from school. The reason why i bring this up because there was an article in the paper today about the murder of 4 local volunteers and one soldier who were killed while patrolling the highway to protect and escort schoolteachers. A roadside bomb blew their truck up, but they survived the initial impact only to be cut down by a hail of 300+ bullets (one volunteer survived and is in critical condition but the m-16 rifles and handguns carried by the volunteers and the soledier were stolen(probably going end up in hands of a 15-year-old, the preferred age of 'martyrs'(or disaffected, angry teens?) in this area)).

*unfortunately, i expected to talk about what i've been doing, but i digressed severely from my discussion of the northeast of country(Isaan). but I will published the list that i had previously made to include in my next discussion, and will modify it slightly now that i have my housing situation sorted out and am becoming acquainted with KKU's sprawling (by Thai standards?) campus.

I promise I will write more extensively tomorrow, i need to finish moving in or at least get on a more regular schedule (i could have just moved into this internet place, its open twenty-four hours and the plush recliners go back to parallel with the floor!) it looks like the rains slowed down so I'm going move like a fullback and make my cut before the window closes (i'll probably end up with a face full of mud regardless).

1. Watching World Cup (2 am kickoffs not going to be routine)
2. Sri Koon people drinking all morning/afternoon/night (muay thai sparring, rotating cast eating around a table with whiskey soda and water)
2. Whats with karaoke?
5. Going to see Mr. Pinyo(confused by directions, making stops at condos)(finding apartment)
6. Need wheels
7. finding monks and kickboxers (use force(Xtreme loving kindness) if necessary)
8. Friendliness, patience, (in)tolerance> of Thais?.
9. Immensity of Khon Kaen campus (freshman hazing)
10. It's going to take a while to achieve familiarity

sticking around

2006-06-25T04:07:00.000-07:00

Taking a break from checking out puppies for sale at the central bus station, I must first state that I doubt that I will be able to keep up this daily consistency, but the equivalent of 30 cents I have in my pocket will buy me an hour + on the internet with enough money left over for a public pickup truck or songtaeow to drop me back off from where I came. I arrived in Khon Kaen at 1:30 am last night, just in time for the second half of Argentina's overtime victory over Mexico, after an inexplicably long 10-hour bus-ride that allowed me to escape the flooded streets of Bangkok(apparently, the monsoonal flooding has become a deadly problem in the northwest). Arriving on the street after having spent 2 hours inside, arriving off the Skytrain after eating lunch and typing my previous post, I was greeted by over 2 feet of water on the Bangkok streets, and watched the otherwise speedy motorcyclists walk their bikes through the water, struggling to get their engines to start while the 4-wheeled taxis floated by unharmed. Nervous and scared that plans would be ruined, I realized my best chance of getting to the bus station was by boat, but none was to be seen this far from the river. Fortunately, I was able to squeeze onto the Skytrain, heading to higher ground nearer the bus terminal, where i squeezed into a tuk-tuk(3 wheeled taxi(see the chase that features them in the movie ong bak:muay thai warrior for a better understanding of how cool these automobiles are)) with my 3 bags where I purchased a ticket for the northeast and was hustled onto a bus, unsurprised that i was the only foreigner in sight.

I was told that the trip would take 5-6 hours, but apparently I got onto a 2nd class bus that seemed to stop every 50 feet and made 3 seperate stops of nearly an hour as we inched nearer khon kaen. fortunately, the bus was comfortable and semi-air-conditioned so i was able to nod off for several hours, each extended stop allowing me to refuel with random thai snacks that I couldn't initially identify, and could only tell you now whether they taste good or bad or are just plain odd. considering my experience with the Redbull XO, which is found at nearly every convenience store, there are some native tastes that I don't see myself ever acquiring. in any case, by the time i got to khon kaen, my belt was loosened a few notches.

Khon Kaen seems like it is much cooler than Bangkok, but the smoggy intimacy caused by the motor and foot traffic in Bangkok ratchets up the discomfort factor by at least 10-30 degrees. i like these wide open spaces in a city with a non-existent skyline. Because of my experience on the bus yesterday, I decided to stick with my feet today because I could choose when to stop and when to speed up.

I estimate that I have walked at least 8 miles today, walking to and from Khon Kaen University from my hotel in the morning (which will cost me 5 dollars a night with airconditioning and a tv until i find more permanent living quarters), which was deceptively far, a trip made more hazardous by the discontinuity of the sidewalk along the highway.
After surveying the campus(which is large and very nice-looking), i took a little rest and decided to walk into central khon kaen. I soon realized that the university was quite a ways out of town(i think I walked at least 6km(it tooked me over an hour)), but the walk was manageable because the heat was selectively oppressive(i found shade along 7 percent of the way) as compared to the totalitarian brutality of a stroll through Bangkok (there is no escaping the misery of the outdoors there). In any case, I picked up a little of the Isaan dialect on the way up and realize i have a ways to go before I can productively conversate with the people I want to study, but i know how to make them laugh. Whenever I mention I interest in muay thai, everybody has lit up and sung praises about Somchai Kuamsing, a homegrown champion and national star. this is good news. Perhaps a translator is in order as soon as I figure out how to use my camera.

on the move

2006-06-23T23:27:00.000-07:00

i'm now at the Siam Paragon, a mall that opened 8 months ago in central bangkok, featuring an aquarium, an Imax theater, and pretty much any store that rests at the pinnacle of western material culture, and although i resent paying 1 dollar an hour for internet access, the air conditioning and fast connection is a plus. my bags are packed where im staying, but i thought it would be wise to check my email, baseball standings and whatnot before i take the 6 hour busride to khon kaen where i will seek shelter from the weather, a combination of fire and rain that leaves me shaking my fists at the sky (wet from perspiration or monsoon residue, usually a combination of the two).
this morning i woke up and took a sip of a Caribou(red bull, pronounce Carib-Ouw) 'XO' (i've heard that the concept of the energy drink originated in Thailand) and got a little more of a wake-up call than i was looking for. The one fateful swig i took from the medicine bottle had the consistency of cold canned gravy, and tasted like a soiled ashtray filled with hard liquor. these energy drinks are ubiquitous at the equally ubiquitous 7-11 that dot nearly every corner of bangkok, and come in medicine bottles that cost about 25 cents. unfortunately, i am a sucker for flashy advertising (shiny foil and bright colors) and took the bait on this particular bottle (XO caught my eye), thinking it was an edgier version(and thus cooler version) of a trusted brand. it definitely did the job in terms of aking me up, but i will not forget the taste (that took 20 minutes to wash down) any time soon. i later inquired about what on earth could produce such a horrible flavor, and i found out that it had all the vitamins and caffeine of the normal thai concoction, but this one was special because there was an added kick of nicotine, and although it tasted and smelled like something that could knock you into the gutter pretty fast, it didnt contain any liquor. I'm sure there were a lot more strange ingredients, but i'll have to find out later, but the thing that really got me is that it was Whisky flavored! nothing like artificial whisky flavor, real nicotine, and wholesome vitamins and caffeine to get you started in the morning.
I bought my video camera, a nice little panasonic 3ccd digital with spinning rims, after having made 3 trips to an electronics bazaar where i managed to slash the price, utilizing a trapist wit to bargain 2 extra batteries, 5 mini dv tapes, a tripod and bag, for 150$ US less than the asking price. I have to thank Mr. Nakorn, formerly a teacher at Ampawan Suksaa(they are always looking for foreign teachers if interested), who seems to be unemployed after having spent 8 months in Iceland of all places working in a Thai restaurant, having to come back with his wife(or did she even go? she wasnt in any of the pictures they showed me and still taught at the school) due to visa problems. All i can say is Nakorn is the man, he cant even go back to Ampawan for fear of being mobbed by throngs of cheering supporters. The whole Iceland story is funny, but I'll have to save it for another time because I gotta keep on moving up to Isaan in the next couple hours and manage to keep my camera from being stolen in the process. i also need to make some more kickboxer friends up there to protect it, and quick.

Entering the Thunderdome

2006-06-22T06:19:00.000-07:00

Don't get them started or you will never be able to leave. Today I checked out the American Embassy to try and find out what goes on there, and it was pretty cool to skip the hundreds of Thai nationals that were waiting for days and walk directly up to a window located in a small room adjacent with no particular agenda in mind. Apparently the Bangkok embassy is our country's largest, but I was unable to tour the campus due to the cage-like atmosphere of the consular office. After that, I got some photos put onto a CD and printed some out for the teachers, particularly for Krue Tiwawan, who I also gave a 'Michigan Mom' shirt and a Thai-English dictionary that I bought at a 7-11 around the corner from my hotel that I hope to leave shortly. Tiwawan and the other teachers don't want me to go to Isaan because they think that I can keep coming back to the school every day, but I will be back in the capital again. The kids there amaze me every time, and I feel bad about skipping town because they go crazy every time I come and the teachers are some of the most generous people I have ever met. Tiwawan takes her job very seriously even though she is paid next to nothing, and the rewards can be seen when students address her as a 'Khun Mae' (Mrs. Mom) as they wait patiently for her approval of whatever task they have been assigned (homework, getting me drinks, getting me food). She wants me to stay at the temple, but I am on the move. I will let her know when I am coming back because she told me I will always have a free place to stay in Bangkok as well as highly knowledgable interview subjects. Wat Ampawan is what sparked the interest that got the ball rolling on my project, and the richness of the culture in and out of the school and temple can be felt even by just scratching the surface (even in a coarse American style).

Welcome to Mueang Thai

2006-06-21T03:17:00.000-07:00

Long overdue, I am finally making my first post from within Thai borders. I arrived in Bangkok Sunday night, having been diverted to Chiang Mai for several hours to allow a storm in the capital to pass. I questioned the pilot's claim as we refueled in the provincial capital in the northwest after having flown 17 hours nonstop, but sure enough, the runway at Don Muang was a mess of puddles when we finally arrived at our destination. 5 o'clock does not seem to be a good time to travel here as the rainy season lives up to its name with monsoonal authority at regular intervals. I guess the rain is helping people around the country, especially the farmers of the Northeast, but it has no positive effect on the traffic-choked metropolitan mess that is Bangkok. Disregarding the temporary relief from Bangkok's stifling jungle heat that is amplified by exhaust fumes and the pungently intimate congregations of street vendors and pedestrians, you can do just fine if you know where you are going. So far, I am just getting settled as I prepare for my proposed endeavor, but have managed to completely drain myself before 10 pm all 3 days that I have been here. My improvised itinerary consists of errands and visits throughout the city in the afforementioned heat/downpour that takes a toll on the mind and body. I consider the heat exhaustion fortunate because a 7 am start really gets me ready to stare down what can be a both intimidating and stressful city, and will prepare me further for the potential physical and mental challenges that I expect to be infinitely more difficult when I make my way to Isaan and into the Muay Thai culture and monastic asceticism. Most of the energy that I am still struggling to recover was lost during a visit to the elementary school where I volunteered as an english teacher last summer, which would not have occurred had I not found my NCAA approved football in perfect condition in teachers office. My surprise visit was punctuated by an extended lunch recess a session of orchestrated madness that I credit to myself as the students failed to grasp the concept that American football is not rugby or UFC. Even in rugby constant kicking and punching is not encouraged, especially if you choose to dive headfirst into human piles 0n a concrete playground. Despite the students' displine in the classroom, the Thais really know how to let loose and have a good time, although the violence of some of their favorite activities would not be acceptable on American soil. Even the teachers wanted to play. Needless to say, I picked up where I left off last summer and if my budget becomes more of a concern, I will always have a free room at the monastery at Wat Ampawan, the Buddhist temple adjacent to the school with a permanent teaching vacancy. I have a lot more to say about my plans and my new impressions of Thai culture and my experience thus far, but I accidentally ate Thai-style American food, which is a BIG mistake that many people seem to make when they dont pay attention. All I can say right now is that this is definitely going to be an interesting summer, and I look forward to a final product, a goal that I came one step closer to as I scouted Panasonic 3CCD Digital Video cameras at Pantip Plaza, an enormous electronics mall not far from where I'm staying for now. One logistical problem that I expect to encounter, is finding time to get to a computer, remembering what I have done since my last post, not to mention staying within 200 miles of a place where computers and/or the internet are available. This will be easily achieved if I maintain my self jai yen-yen(heart cool-cool), a Thai expression for 'take it easy' and remember that no matter what obstacles present themselves, with the correct mind-set one can eventually say, if not immediately, 'mai bpen rai' (no problem). This post is probably too long already so I'm going to stop.

In the interest of space, my proposal is a comment

2006-05-31T11:20:00.000-07:00